Another blissfully undisturbed night’s sleep, a peaceful breakfast on the banks of the Rhine and we decided to track down the local chapel in Boppard. We couldn’t miss it really. It was the huge church in the middle of the village, painted white and on the Marktplatz. We went in quietly but found only 2 nuns having a blether in the back pews. I enquired as to the time of mass and was told it had just finished, but that there was an evening mass at 18.30. We resolved to attend that one.

The streets of Boppard

Mary then assumed the role of leader and marched us through the town and down to the Sessellift which would take us thrillingly to the top of the hill from where we could view the famous bends in the river, including the Vierseenblick. There aren’t actually 4 lakes as the name would suggest but an angular view of the river’s triple bends which gives the appearance of 4 separate lakes instead of a river on a double S-bend. The twin-seat Sessel took us up at a sedate pace allowing us to take in the views which slowly revealed themselves the higher we rose.

Do any of you have a problem with heights? I didn’t think I did but anytime the chairlift climbed more than about 20 feet above the slope of the hill I felt myself tense up a bit and hold on just a tad tighter than was necessary. It was probably the exposure that got to me but I was uncomfortable where Mary was totally relaxed. At really high bits I fixed my eyes on the general scene away down in the valley and that did the trick: it was the close-up height difference that got to me I think.

Safely arrived at the top we took in the 2 or 3 viewpoints over the Rhine then decided to have a proper lunch at the Restaurant on the edge of the hill. We got a table with an unrestricted view down into the valley and settled down to Jägerschnitzel in mushroom sauce washed down with some of the best Kölsch beer I have ever tasted. The meal was fabulous and all included set us back £20. Not bad, eh?

The descent was every bit as nerve-jangling as the ascent but I survived and we reached the bottom in one piece. Halfway down, the chairlift stopped and a tannoy system announced “Schuggeln ist verboten!”. Let me tell you here and now that the last thing I had any intention of doing on the chairlift was “schuggeln” from side to side!!

We checked out the days and times of the boat trips down the Rhine, made plans for several more visits, then drove back to the campsite for a wee rest before returning to Boppard for mass. It was fine but we both struggled to follow the German. An ice cream on the riverfront, a short stop at the petrol station for rolls and beer, then we drove back to the caravan where we sat and watched the boats go by.

We made lots of efforts to get some kind of Internet connection (including sitting in the railway station pretending we were waiting for a train!) but as you can tell, to no avail. We promise we will try again tomorrow.